![]() ![]() You’re looking to see if the two sides meet neatly without the lapels hanging forward off your body (too loose) or the lower edges of the jacket flaring out like a skirt (too tight). This means that part of the trying-on process is checking how the front of the jacket closes over your body.Ĭlose a single-breasted jacket with only one button when you’re testing the fit, even if it’s a three-button jacket. When you are wearing a suit and standing, you should have the jacket buttoned (you know the jacket buttoning rules, right? Click here to learn!). ![]() In fact, dress pants are often sold unhemmed, with the assumption that the purchaser will take the trousers to a tailor (or make use of the store’s tailor if there is one) to have the cuffs fitted. This is one of the easiest adjustments to make, so you can rely on making some changes here if you need to. The cuff should indeed rest on the top of your shoe - there needs to be contact - but it shouldn’t do much more than that. The trouser can fall a touch longer in the back than in front, so long as it’s still above the heel of the shoe (the actual heel, not just the back of the shoe). One horizontal dimple or crease is usually ideal. The “break” is the small wrinkle caused when the top of your shoe stops your trouser cuff from falling to its full length. Err on the side of too loose rather than too tight when buying. Unless the pants have an unusual amount of spare cloth on the inside, seats can’t be “let out” very far to make the fit looser. You can spot a bad fit in the seat when there are horizontal wrinkles just under the buttocks (caused by too tight of a fit), or by loose, U-shaped sags on the backs of the thighs (caused by too loose of a fit). The back of your trousers should be a smooth drape over the shape of your rear end - whatever that happens to be.Ī good fit in the seat will lie loosely against your underwear, without pulling tight against your butt or draping loosely down your thighs. Odds are you’ll never be able to get it quite right with post-purchase alterations. Shoulders are one of the hardest parts of a jacket to adjust after construction, so don’t buy a piece with an ill-fitted shoulder. In these instances, you’ll see “ripple effects” that create lumps or wrinkles on the sleeve and the top of the jacket. If the seam that connects the sleeve to the jacket is hiked up along your shoulder bone, or dangling down on your upper bicep, the jacket is never going to sit properly. The seam on top of the shoulder should be the same length as the bone under it, and should meet the sleeve of the suit right where your arm meets your shoulder. ![]() Look for a good fit in the following areas when you’re in your natural stance: The ShoulderĪ well-fitted shoulder lies flat. Practice standing in that relaxed, upright pose, and then start trying on suits in that posture. ![]() If the suit doesn’t fit well in this stance, it’s not going to move comfortably with your body either. It’s not actually a very natural posture for a lot of us, but it is the base from which most of our movement flows. That means standing up straight, preferably in the kind of dress shoes you’ll be wearing with your suits, with your arms relaxed at your side. When you try on a suit, you’re looking for a good fit in what’s called your “natural stance.” Can you guess which man had his suit tailored to fit? ![]()
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